The Roaches

Were banging.

Johnny on his second trad lead ever, me belaying. Check the z clip out, that boy has skills. Johnny is the one that'd be pulled off by a boot in the face if the guy above him falls off.

I lead some easy corner crack, into which I put all my rack, I figured if I was carrying it I might as well place it.

Then stuck a top rope on Chalkstorm, checked where the holds were and did it first try. It had some wicked moves, I especially liked using a pinky mono to cross the overlap. Could solo it but not sure if I will.

Next day, shunted Obsession Fatale. It lures you in, easy moves to the break, easy moves over the break, a slightly tricky mantle onto a ledge, then you can almost reach the top, stand up on the next smear then I fall. Only onto the shunt, not the 10m to the ground and two broken legs fortunately. Couldn't do the last couple of moves, but I think on a top rope it'd be easier than with a shunt which was pulling me slightly off balance. Tempting to go back and try this again.

Then tried a cool jamming roof crack boulder problem on the upper tier, was really nice.