Thursday, 23 June 2011


was a washout. Apparently, west sweden is the new west highlands.

We went to Utby, did one route, it looked like it could be alright when dry. We decided against Hono. We went to Marstund, the rock momentarily dried out, the DWS was ok if you like friction slabs and ledges, it was fun, the routes were short, no swims were taken. Soon the rain came back.

Gothenburg in the dry looks like a great climbing city, the locals are keen and the routes are soft, and plenty of potential, not much steep stuff but everything else is there.

And the baked goods are great.

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Old School Training and Summer Plans

Hidden away in the corridors of uni, there is an old wall. It's always deserted, holds polished, sharp and snappy with an array of bizarre jamming cracks. In places, it's polystyrene innards spew out. It's six years older than I am. The landing is unforgiving. If you are lucky you might land on a passing medic to cushion your fall.

It's awesome.

Uni finished, summer plans include a couple of trips abroad, morocco and sweden. Both look brilliant. The cham alps calls but I'm not that keen, good lines are still there to be climbed, keen parteners everywhere, offer of free accom, but I've fallen out of love with it, well not all of it but I'm not psyched for 20 pitches of easy rock and ice in a day, dodging missiles, down to the valley, repeat until death/end of trip. There was a line on the freney I wanted to do and the ginat in lush neve conditions looks balling as well, another look at the dru, the gulley on mont dolent. Spring and autumn look like the time to go, winter is for scotland of course, summer in the alps seems to consist of everything being out of condition and chatting bs in the valley, excessive pasta consumption, rest day frolicks on bolts, being outclimbed by goats, man it's so good.

But this summer is about scotland for me.


Ben Alder



Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Hell's Lum


Barns of Bynack

Need to be fitter, stronger, cleverer. Feeling inspired.