Thursday, 13 October 2011
Eastern cairngorms are rarely visited, I had heard about bynack more and wanted to check it out. I'd seen pictures and it looked similar to natural grit in style, loads of rounded breaks, just hopefully without the ridiculous friction.
Mclells rolled up as rope boy.
Initially, I optimistically hoped for a first winter route of the season, in previous years I've missed a couple of opportunities and I wasn't letting this one go.
However, it was not to be, some hurricane was rolling in from down in mexico, bringing forecasted 100mph winds and warm air.
The walk in was pleasant, we ran past the green lochan in sunshine, yes, it was going to be perfect.
The weather started to get a bit blustery, some clouds were lurking.
When we reached the summit of bynack mor, the rain was kicking in to the mix.
We then spent a short time chasing a hare. A couple of bearings were required to reach the little barns, which we passed pretty quick, and then out of the mist, the real barns loomed.
I was super excited. We got the tent up without too much bother. Rivers were running down the rocks, I had a play about and realised why it's rarely climbed on. The rock's coat is savage sharp crystals, which often break off. Perhaps with a winter coat it might be more fun. Loads of offwidths and chimneys.
In the night, the wind got up, so even in our relatively sheltered position, the ICMC tent I'd borrowed seemed unhappy, and we took it in turns to hold it up while the other slept.
The next day, the weather was a little better, showery but the wind was strong and I thought there might be a side that'd be dry, we had a good scout around but it wasn't to be.
This was what I was here for, this arete looks brilliant.
Steep slab climbing also available.
However, this was as much climbing as I got done.
Plenty of interesting things to scramble about on, even in the rain.
We decided to either head to fandouran, the shelterstone or home. Home won in the end.
Posted by Calum Nicoll at 17:48